Effects of Investigational Moisturizers on the Skin Barrier and Microbiome following Exposure to Environmental Aggressors: A Randomized Clinical Trial and Ex Vivo Analysis.

Fiche publication

Date publication

septembre 2023

Journal

Journal of clinical medicine

Auteurs

Membres identifiés du Cancéropôle Est :
Pr HUMBERT Philippe

Tous les auteurs :
Wang DQ, Li X, Zhang RY, Yuan C, Yan B, Humbert P, Quan ZX

Lien Pubmed

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/37763018

Résumé

The skin microbiota barrier participates in skin barrier function in addition to the physical, chemical, and immunological protective barriers, and is affected by environmental aggressors and skincare regimens. To better understand the exact effects of real-life environmental conditions on the skin and determine the protective methods, this study investigates the effects of three topical cosmetic moisturizers (water gel moisturizers with/without yeast extract (Moisturizers K and C) and a thick-emulsion cream moisturizer (Moisturizer L)) on clinical and skin microbiome endpoints in the presence of environmental aggressors during an 8-week, randomized controlled, triple-blind clinical trial with 110 participants, and molecular- as well as biomarker-level endpoints on ex vivo skin explants after exposure to simulate urban environmental conditions. The results show that all moisturizers are well-tolerated and improve skin barrier function and surface moisture content from the baseline, and the improvement is maintained at the last analysis point (3 days after trial completion). Compared with the untreated control areas (samples taken from the upper chest), treatment with Moisturizer K prevented a reduction in bacterial and fungal richness, and increased the change ratio of the relative abundance of commensal bacteria, such as and , at the treated sites (samples taken from the forehead). Moreover, Moisturizer K-treated ex vivo skin explants had higher levels of caspase 14 (a marker of skin barrier function), collagen I, and elastin (structure components), and lower levels of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR; activated by air pollutants) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) than those in explants treated with other moisturizers and in the untreated areas of the skin. These results suggest that a skin postbiotic moisturizer with yeast extract supports the regulation of the skin's microbiome balance and may provide a holistic barrier (involving skin microbiome, physical, chemical, and immune barriers) to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.